illnesses going around in my areabc kutaisi vs energy invest rustavi

Posted by
on Jul, 15, 2022
in computer science monash handbook
Blog Comments Off on illnesses going around in my area

Plug a huge draw into your inverter and watch the battery start taking charge once its no longer full. Besides that would a useless and quite lame thing to do. I am setting up a mutiplus to charge my Renogy lithium batteries and I am not sure about what to do for the float voltage. I specifically have my solar charger set to not attempt to charge the batteries unless they fall below 13.2 right now because my batteries are not really being used. This is overcome by increasing amperage. On the flip side, It's time for a fresh battery bank soon. Are you building a solar system for your house? It would mean a lot if anyone could point out anything I get wrong in this reply. It was partly cloudy. Renogy doesn't make anything - it's a branding company, not a manufacturer. Just a collection of thoughts which may or may not be helpful. This is a screen capture of my charge controller charging my bank on a typical sunny day. What do you have your CC battery type set on? The nature of the beast. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. Charging limit voltage - I set this to 14.4. Of course your controller is not allowing any charge, it will harm the LI battery. Renogy LFP batteries don't need top up charge when the battery is kept connected to charger without any load running, since the self-consumption is very low. It defaulted to 13.2. "Connected each isolated battery via jumper cables to Ford E350 6.7 diesel Super Duty. Good years are sweet! That's where the 'float' voltage comes in: configure it to the value the batteries aren't loaded, for LiFePO4 about 3,35V per cell = 13,4V. Then again he did close government which only hurt the American people. If I'm wrong about the meanings of any of these, please illuminate me! Even stamped a visa with the bottom of a Pacifico bottle in Loreto. You have a full battery. If it were a simpler design, the RPM of the alternator is what determines the voltage. I leave a 2 panel maintenance array running to keep them topped off. That should give you about 12 charging amps. It has to significantly exceed the battery's voltage. 2018 3500 EXT - Building Thread (never really done). I have two concerns at this point, first is the Renogy battery doesn't have output contacts from the BMS so I do not know how to trigger the Multiplus to turn the charger off after the battery is fully charged if I don't want to use a float voltage such as when in storage and what triggers the charger to charge again if the battery does need "topped off". I would not expect the voltage to slowly climb to what would indicate a 100% SoC. I really want to understand this stuff and not just make changes without understanding them. The controller meter says 13.4V. It's partly cloudy where I am, and they're not tilted. And while it's doing that, your multimeter on the battery terminals should read that voltage. Given the poor support from both Renogy and Victron I wish I had gone with a different combination. That's what it needs to put out in order to get current to flow into the battery. This can provide another problem: in an ESS system the system will actually discharge the battery to reach this float-voltage. I saw the another as high as 5 amps, but the voltage was still only 13.2 at the battery. Renogy gives a cut-off current, so to stop charging after that. At that voltage, the battery is 90 to 95% full. 24 volt LiFePo4battery bank. Yet even after 2 hours of leaving it running (with untilted panels) in the mixed sun and clouds, a multimeter at the terminals never read more than that 13.2. If the battery needs more amps than the charge controller can supply then the voltage will drop. The lower the charging amps the longer it will take to reach absorb voltage. That's why they don't know their own specs, because which particular cells and BMS you have depends entirely on which Chinese warehouse overstock they bought and slapped their name on. reading above comments, I have to warn you, DO NOT treat your battery like AGM or flooded, lithium ion has a much lower full voltage value. These batteries really only need to reach 100% periodically so no worry about going even weeks without reaching float. If you've mentioned what panel you are using I missed it. We did that a few times. Because this is the ballancing portion it may take hours, days, weeks or even years to achieve perfect balance, depending on capacity, how out of ballance the cells are and the ballance current capabilities. That and the fact that I can leave them for 3 months in the summer without needing to check electrolyte. The battery is restricting the voltage rise. This morning I created a custom profile and didnt see much difference. Volts = current * resistance, so I'd expect to see a .05V rise in terminal voltage when charging (lead acid batteries are different here). I don't think that's a significant factor. Attachments: Up to 8 attachments (including images) can be used with a maximum of 190.8 MiB each and 286.6 MiB total. The amperage the controller is outputting is moot if the voltage isn't high enough. The battery reads 13.2 volts. I'm curious what Renogy says it should be. Controller: EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 50A 150V, Battery: Renogy 12V 170 Ah (RNG-BATT-LFP-12-170). Since the cells are not accessible it's not possible in your case to measure individual cell voltage, the reading of the cells in series is the only indication of state of charge, however a meter with 1000mV or 0.1V resolution is not accurate enough because 13.4V indicated could be 13.351V for example or it could be 13.499V. Provided the current is sufficient the voltage will gradually rise to the pre set absorb voltage. I'm new to the lithium battery world and have looked over other forum posts and google but not sure of the answer. Yes? Since there is very little useful capacity over 3.400V per cell there is little point in reaching that value. In other words, it ages the cells unnecessarily. And how long is it? Still love it here but a bit more work than normal. Anything Solar Do It Yourself! Discuss your projects, show us pictures, ask for help. And why doesn't it read 14.4V since that's what I configured it to output? What is the lowest voltage that you have seen in the batteries? Hopefully it will raise the battery voltage 1 or 2 tenths of a volt. I'm not really sure what this feature is for. The current should be at maximum until almost fully charged, it should then cascade to very low values as it approaches the terminal voltage set-point, 14.4V in your case. That's how trickle chargers work. Any thoughts you could add about how that works would be greatly appreciated. I don't understand all of these settings. I've had a 200 amp hour LFP battery bank in service for almost 3 years and what I have described is the charging characteristics I've observed. This information should be available from the battery manufacturer. Also, how do you disable float as suggested by renogy (apparently). At what point will the battery not need more amps? How can those 5 amps be getting into the battery if the voltage hasn't changed? Float charging voltage - Like I said above, I've read it's supposed to be the same as the main charging voltage, so I set it to 14.4V. I'm NOT a lithium battery expert, far from it, but one of the advantages of lithium batteries is that they are VERY efficient, They don't require the much higher voltage you see with lead acid batteries. Then you should see substantial current . So don't do anything if you don't have the EXACT full voltage of the battery and its charging specs handy. [EDIT: I'm wrong, it totally has load connections, but I'm probably never going to use them.] An FLA battery itself could never output 16V, right? Click here to remove banner ads from this forum. If you can't get rid of the float stage, please track the float charging current and make sure it's small enough to not over charge the battery. We had a really bad winter weatherwise and 2 years of month long, smokey wildfires. "All the theroy related to lead acid is not applicable, useful perhaps in basic understanding, but definitely not applicable to lithium batteries and their very different needs.". Personally I wouldn't worry too much as long as the programed voltage of the controller is at the required value and the solar is capable of achieving the voltage, just let the internal BMS do its thing. Not sure how this differs from the low voltage disconnect. You will notice the voltage (yellow line) rises through the day until it reaches the absorb set point in the afternoon at 3:33 PM and then holds steady there until 4:00 PM, then the charge controller goes to rest (not charging) until the battery discharges to the float set point. It seems like the voltage it must drop to in order to go back into boost/absorption mode? This also seem to be the general consensus wit of grid users of lifepo4 prysmatic cells which may differ from your battery if it uses hundreds of small cells though I do have my doubts. . I'd assume the same is true of lithium batteries, so how can it be charging the battery at only 13.4V? Called Renogy and they want us to send batteries back we are full time and that is not an option right now. I'm just not understanding why that was the case. The very end of the charge cycle when it's very nearly full? So, for a proper test, I should run a load on this battery for a while and try my testing again, tomorrow? As to your question for me. I expect you need a more precise volt meter. One might assume that maybe it's in float charge mode if the battery is full, but I have the float charge set to 14.4V, so that doesn't make any sense. Still have good years though and a lithium bank and a FLA on completely separate systems gives peace of mind. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. ", The Forum has been moved to support.renogy.com, Lithium 170 ah Batteries not charging completely. Or should I be expected to see a full charge state of up to 14.4V. Looking at the following graph from Battery University, the voltage only increases during the bulk charging phase, and stays flat during the saturation (absorption) phase. And I got a different answer. We always had spares for clients, but I finally made 2 separate working power systems here. EDIT: I just found some of the deeper monitor screens of the meter, specifically for the battery. Well I missed out on a lot of much more detailed explanation on lithium batteries than I could give. Note: The values above are based on the manufacturers suggestions, I personally would choose lower values to extend life expectancy. I could set it to 14.2, but that didn't change the behavior of the controller. I've read other posts on these forums and searched the web, but I still came up short. When the sun was out in full, I turned on the panels and the voltage at the terminals still reads 13.2 V, yet the controller now says it's putting out 5 A. The LFP folks will find the hi ambient heat and deep cold are going to shorten life or crack cells. Right? Yes Dave, Looking forward to many of my best years to come. This is for an RV, so essentially a backup system with solar, an ESS with the intent to keep the batteries 100% charged until the shore power (grid power) goes away. The float setting will allow the battery to remain in a state of neither charging nor dischargeing, this will allow it to be at a useful state of charge when there is no solar input, useful in off grid applications. It's possible you're getting voltage drop when the charger kicks on and it's shutting off as it thinks the starter battery is under voltage. It's the voltage that forces the current to flow in a certain direction, from high voltage to low. I get that. The charge controller's actual output is still 14.4 volts, but the load that the battery is putting on it is dragging the voltage down. Don't rely on the display of the controller, get a meter with milivolt resolution to get accurate measurements. Are the settings correct? There's only one amp coming in from your panel(s). I have three Renogy 100W panels in series. Easy to be sheltered on the baja. Voltage is what is metaphorically called the "pressure" and the current is the flow rate, but you are saying that the current is "pushing the voltage". We have trouble shot everything and wondering if anyone else has had this problem? 4480W PV, MNE175DR-TR, MN Classic 150, Outback Radian GS4048A, Mate3, 51.2V 360AH nominal LiFePO4, Kohler Pro 5.2E genset. VictronMultiPlus-II 48/5000/70-50 Generator to Charge the Battery. I own six total, but I'm just testing with three. If the voltage were high enough, the battery would receive a charge, regardless of the amount of current. The ideal charging profile for lithium battery is keeping the constant current stage (fast charge) until the battery is reaching 100%, which means when the battery charging voltage reaches the absorption (boost) voltage set point, the battery is almost fully charged. It's high because lead acid batteries have a lot of internal resistance and all that. The under voltage warning could be useful set at 12V, the same value for disconnect if using the load terminals. At least it's not behaving how I expected. With solar charging, charging amps are usually less than the max the battery will take, especially with LFP batteries, so the voltage will slowly rise to about 80 to the low 90s% before they reach absorb voltage. If you know who closes the border it wouldn't last 24 hours. That doesn't make any sense to me. Before connecting the panels, I programmed my controller with parameters that I thought would work, but it doesn't seem to be. Whilst monitoring the battery voltage state when charging, it seems to stop at 13.6V.Is this the full charge capacity state the battery can go to? @MysteriousFoundation Sorry for the side track. At that point you're not reading the battery, you're reading the alternator, even at the battery terminals. LFP batteries do not like sitting at 100% state of charge, 90% SOC is the max generally preferred. 3.9 amps is only a 2.29% charge rate. Very comforting to hit that inverter bypass and a different set of batteries and inverter come on. Or will it always be lower than that? Most modern MPPT chargers (or pwm) DO NOT have an LI setting and must be programmed manually. And throughout all that, the battery monitoring screen records no incoming current (which it knows how to do - tested that with the AC-DC charger earlier). I set it to 14.4V. We have attempted 4 different charging sources will not go higher than 13.3 We have conducted all of the following tests with zero load on each battery. The battery will internally cut itself off at 10V, so I set the disconnect at 11, and the reconnect at 12. DMT-1250 shows that with the engine running, there's plenty of voltage from the van battery. With our Li batteries, we would recommend setting the charging voltage to 14.4 0.2V, the float voltage must be set to the same voltage as our batteries do not require a floating stage. At which point I step back and hopefully learn something. If it were truly charging the battery, then the voltage would be higher when charging than idle, but they are both the same. That's not really applicable with Lithium batteries, so maybe I don't know as much as I need to. This is roughly a 24 hour period. Now, if I used the same settings but I connected a flooded battery, there's no way it would have charged it. All the theroy related to lead acid is not applicable, useful perhaps in basic understanding, but definitely not applicable to lithium batteries and their very different needs. 6 hours is way too long. Thanks all for the feedback, that's all really good helpful stuff in trying to wrap my arms around this. Are you sure you don't have current and voltage backwards? I'm a little confused if it's the charger not charging properly, or if the battery is meant to have a full charge state at 13.6V. Ignition off will lead to the unit not charging off the van battery no matter what (and turns the charging off about a couple seconds later, as opposed to the minute or two the charger might otherwise take when it detects van voltage dropping on engine shutoff - something that might come in handy if trying to get a bit of charging in on short intermittent trips). Please help with my Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/35. With a DIY bank it's possible to monitor individual cells to visually see what's going on, however with a packaged bank this is not possible. Renogy's battery monitor shows 70% SOC, and 13.3V for the house battery bank. We cannot get batteries to take more than a 13.3 volt charge. Especially nice when I have to leave home and for my wife to use if needed. You're reading the current voltage on the wire, and it's the 14.7. But elsewhere I have read that that will kill a lithium battery. The rest of the settings relate to the load terminals or boost and equalization which are taken care of by the lowest value of 9V so should never occur. My little $18 inline shunt meter reads 13.35V. Voltage, up to the absorb voltage is available but the battery doesn't instantly jump to absorb voltage. If one cell becomes higher or lower it will modulate the current to ensure they are within parameters, sometimes actually cutting the charging altogether to allow stabilization then resuming, this occurs at the knee of the charging curve where minor imbalances occur for the most part. Now, with solar, I guess I was expecting the same thing to happen. In fact, at the end it was even lower. I figure this is the absolute highest voltage the controller will send to the batteries. Toggle Comment visibility. Correct, it will take amps until it is full. Well, riddle solved. Low Voltage Reconnect voltage - I believe this is only used when using the Load side of the controller for lights and other small appliances. My second concern is If I am connected to shore power and using the RV 12v system for lighting, fans and so on how do I keep the battery from cycling unnecessarily (I assume this is when I want a float voltage). The controller was supposedly in Boost (absorb) mode, but the voltage was less than a traditional float charge by almost half a volt. The manufacturer of a sealed battery has no knowledge of what the end users abilities or knowledge, so they supply a recommended set of values. I'm not finding anything so far. 2.1 KwSuntech 175 mono,Classic 200, TraceSW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. Discharging limit voltage - Seems like it might be for the load again. DMT-1250 also shows the house battery bank at 13.3V (doesn't show SOC). When the battery was assembled the cells would have been ballanced, the ballancing the BMS dose at 14.4V is at extremely low current values which some meters may not be able to detect and definitely not the controller display. I am sure it is something I have missed in the manual but for the life of me I re-read it and I have not figured it out so any help would be appreciated. How can that be? 2018 3500 EXT Camper Conversion in CT (TX for now due to Covid). I would expect it to read 14.4V immediately. Or is it always at 13.2 3? It said it was in Boost mode, and that's configured for 14.4V. 1500W, 6 Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS, "we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396656#Comment_396656, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396661#Comment_396661, https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396670#Comment_396670, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396654#Comment_396654, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396675#Comment_396675, https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/comment/396680#Comment_396680. That is much safer. How does the Orion TR Smart DC-DC charger isolated 12/12-30 short circuit protect? It also shows CH3 (the van battery input source) available, but not charging (CH3 is flashing in the display, and that's apparently what that means according to the manual). I dont see a way to disable float voltage. Were a community forum dedicated to Promaster enthusiasts to discuss mods, camper conversions, diesel, fuel economy, reviews and more! Anyway I still feel the same LOL. The whole puzzle of what's going on just doesn't fit together. Example, if a battery is at a lower state of charge and the maximum amperage is applied, the voltage will go to absorb voltage almost immediately and stay there until absorb is finished. It also says it will cutoff charging above 14.6V, which I assume is a safety mechanism. All batteries have some resistance to charging, and LFP batteries are no exception. If you read the battery before starting it, it will say 12.6V. I suppose it could be 14.5, or maybe even 14.6 if the battery cuts off above 14.6V, but I figured setting it to 14.4 is best. When your alternator runs, it's putting 14+ volts on the battery because that's the only way to get current to flow into it. In reality once the cells are accurately ballanced the is little need to perform ballancing on a daily basis. > I would expect it to read 14.4V immediately. Regardless of the current from the panels, the voltage is plenty high, and the MPPT controller will trade one for the other as needed. I set it to 11V and the "reconnect" to 11.2. A car battery is 12.6V. I am available for custom hardware/firmware development. Forgot to hit post comment. Over voltage disconnect voltage - I'm guessing this means that if the controller will disconnect if the detected battery voltage is higher than the value. So your batteries are 2 months old? Regarding the float voltage, what's the reason to lower it? With a controller that is programmable, the end amps would be set much higher value in order to prevent it from having any part of the termination of absorption, which is just a function of a controller designed for lead acid batteries. According to Renogy my charge voltage is 14.4, cut off is 14.6 but it doesn't say if you should have a float voltage. If the battery is sitting at 13.4 volts the charge controller is going to supply charging voltage which when connected to the battery will basically be a bit higher than the batteries voltage. And there's a recognized input coming from the van battery (and/or solar, but I don't have any solar hooked up yet) that's above its start-up threshold - which it is (mine is delivering 14.4 and up, vs. the 13.2V start-up cutoff). Watch the charging voltage the next time you have some good direct sun on your three 100 watt panels. Equalize charging voltage - not really applicable to LFP batteries, but I set it to 14.4 to effectively disable it. Calibration needed? JavaScript is disabled. In essence you would be fooling the controller into believing it is charging a lead acid battery. I think you should go back to Renogy and ask what there float voltage is I would think it would be around 13.6, The above are mostly generic values so you need to find the correct ones from your battery suppler or take a guess, Renogy didn't really give me a good answer to the float voltage question, they said, "We are in the process of investigating whether float is indifferent or has an effect on our particular battery", I too would like to know nhi if this has been cleared up. I guess I didn't expect them to send me a battery with such a high SoC. It could have been 10, 12, or even 13, and it would still read 14.7V with the alternator running. If the internal BMS manages what they battery takes in, why lower the voltage at all? For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You can shut down the controller then reconnect the next time the sun is overhead and shining brightly on your panels. Your not really suposed to top them off either, 90% full is plenty and increases the battery cycle life when it comes to LI . If you read it while it's charging, it will read 14.7V because that's what the alternator is putting out. It won't let me set it to 14.4; it gives me a parameter error. This is how people burn their LI batteries up and that will burn anything near it as well, including your home. The battery's voltage before it started has no effect on the reading you get with the multimeter while the alternator is running. Are you saying that that battery itself is somehow telling the controller what voltage to send? It depends largely on the controller, if automatically 2% as the Schneider is, based on battery capacity, the capacity programed into the controller would be less than actual, to ensure a quick transition to float, technically ending the charging. Generally based on a timed end point or a percentage of Ah. Let's assume the battery voltage is 13.4V, that value is in the 90-95% fully charged regon, without knowing exactly what the BMS is programed to do, it is very likely it is purposely reducing current for the final few percentage points, there are hundreds of cells which need a very controled current to prevent individual cell runaway. Had a very productive exchange of emails with a tech from Kisae who walked me through a bunch of troubleshooting, then determined that the particular firmware version of my particular unit actually DOES require the ignition-on lead, despite what the spec sheet and manual say. I'm not an expert on lithium batteries but I'd guess they are sitting at 13.4 and the small amount of current isn't sufficient to charge them very fast. I dont use LI batteries for various reasons, one of them is the "funny" charging peramiters, but if memory serves me, your battery is full. Can you fly in if the border gets crazy? It changed up and down slightly. What size wire are you running from the starter battery to the DMT? It just feels like the controller is misbehaving. The internal BMS will use that voltage as needed to balance cells, etc. The higher the charging amperage the higher it will push the voltage of the battery. Just wondering if your battery monitor's SOC is properly calibrated to your battery bank. Only when disconnecting the panels would I expect it to read the battery's voltage itself, since the controller would no longer be outputting anything. At that time the charger begins charging at float voltage. Boost duration - Seems moot if I set the boost voltage to the same as the charge limit voltage, but I left it at the default of 120 minutes.